Stem Restoration - No Sandpaper
- Thread starter runscott
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To be fair, I actually use the same method as @Chasing Embers but only around the bit, shank connection and any logos.
Otherwise it is wet sanding through the micromesh pads for me. Sometimes will start at 800.
The only hiccup I had with the lighter method is that when I polished it with toothpaste the stem oxidised again. I put this down to using a tooth paste which had a high quantity of baking soda in it.
I don’t know if I’ll follow your method going by these before and after shots
It may help to explain things that Dave (@Ahi Ka) is a Kiwi from downunder
Yes UV is a real threat hereIt may help to explain things that Dave (@Ahi Ka) is a Kiwi from downunder
Be careful with a bic lighter and stamped logos. The heat can lift the stamp as it does tooth marks.
What ?
In the land of the long white cloud ?
In all seriousness the UV levels are still very high even on cloudy days here in Oz.
Hence the high incidence of skin cancers, including melanomas.
I always forget the southern hemisphere reality of being polar opposite of northern hemisphere like toilets flushing the other direction and whatnot. Carry on.It may help to explain things that Dave (@Ahi Ka) is a Kiwi from downunder
Perfect job Scott.I realize that sometimes sandpaper is necessary for stem restoration; however, I hardly ever have to use it. In fact, I rarely have to soak my stems anymore. This Mark Twain arrived today and is perfect for showing how to restore a stem using a Magic Eraser with alcohol.
The first picture shows that the part of the tenon that was in the mortise does not have oxidation, but the rest of the stem has fairly bad oxidation. I tore off a small piece of Magic Eraser and doused it with alcohol, then scrubbed the bit end of the stem with it.
The second picture shows the stem after my initial scrubbing of everything but the oxidized section of the tenon.
The third picture shows the stem after scrubbing the tenon and giving the rest of the stem a little more scrubbing. The very chewed up piece of Magic Eraser was what I used on the stem. The less damaged piece was used to scrub the bit details, and the oxidized section of the tenon.
The final picture shows a 1981 Peterson Mark Twain, restored back to 'unsmoked' condition
Kidding, but it did turn out great. After the Magic Eraser scrubbing, I polished the stem with 'Before & After' Fine polish, then with Extra Fine. (The silver band got Flitz, the stummel 'Before & After' Balm).
sometimes a clogged stem asks to be soaked ( submerged ) in alcohol for 24 hrs. or so.
It learned me that oxidation dissolves in alcohol. The stems come out relatively clean and the little oxidation
there still is easily wipes of with a paper towel, or a rag.
That looks great! I had a thread up last year about a Stanwell I wanted to try restoring and got some great advice from all. It had some accumulated crud that responded better to Barkeeper's Friend initially, Soft Scrub later and micro mesh - but even got to try some toothpaste as the thicker crap was gone. Enjoy seeing the different ideas. Lost a bit of the Stanwell logo, but despite the lighting/angle after pic, it's still there, just not as proud. The underside of the stem was even worse than the top. As you might notice from the fit, I learned a little lesson about sanding the area where the shank and stem meet, lol. There was a little crack at the very end that needed attention and a little sanding there was necessary and the repair of that has held up great.
I don't hunt but damn do I want that pipe! What's the model called?
Stanwell just called it part of their Hunter series. It was really hard to find and I've seen a couple other different shapes from days gone by that were sold. I think maybe in the 80s they came out. This one looked so bad I almost passed.