Two Quick Questions.

[orlandofurioso]

I've found when using it on rusticated pipes I'll notice white spots of the wax in some of the indentations which are awkward to get out. But that's probably because I use too much.

Yes, you best apply very thin " layers".
A few times over; dry for a day in between.

 

[Sigmund]

@TheIronMonkey Ive been wondering as to the best method of actually using Renaissance on a textured pipe. Do you apply and let it dry or apply and buff? The instructions say if you let it dry the shine will be dull. Im a bit lost on the best appication method.

I see the post above that was posted when I was typing. Can anyone shed light on the best method of getting a nice luster from pipes? I tend to use carnuba on my smooth pipes as I do have a power buffer.

 

[simong]

I've found when using it on rusticated pipes I'll notice white spots of the wax in some of the indentations which are awkward to get out. But that's probably because I use too much.

With rusticated & sandblasts, i give them the hairdryer treatment, melting the white bits & buffing off after with a soft brush or cloth.

 

[TheIronMonkey]

@TheIronMonkey Ive been wondering as to the best method of actually using Renaissance on a textured pipe. Do you apply and let it dry or apply and buff? The instructions say if you let it dry the shine will be dull. Im a bit lost on the best appication method.

I see the post above that was posted when I was typing. Can anyone shed light on the best method of getting a nice luster from pipes? I tend to use carnuba on my smooth pipes as I do have a power buffer.

This would be true of any of the microcrystalline waxes. Get a little daub on your fingertips and apply—rub it in vigourously with your fingertips so that the application is very thin. ( @sablebrush52 is able to get results that he likes with just his fingers working the wax up in temperature with hand friction alone). You definitely don’t want build up or pockets of wax. Before the wax dries, you can also lightly buff with an old toothbrush to ensure the wax is not built up in the nooks and crannies of your pipe’s rustication or sandblast. Then, let the wax dry. Once dry, lightly and quickly buff with a microfiber cloth. You want the contact to be just across the surface in quick strokes. The tiny microfibers will do the work and get the sheen up.

 

[mingc]

I've found when using it on rusticated pipes I'll notice white spots of the wax in some of the indentations which are awkward to get out. But that's probably because I use too much.

It comes out pretty easily with a toothbrush

 

[sablebrush52]

This would be true of any of the microcrystalline waxes. Get a little daub on your fingertips and apply—rub it in vigourously with your fingertips so that the application is very thin. ( @sablebrush52 is able to get results that he likes with just his fingers working the wax up in temperature with hand friction alone). You definitely don’t want build up or pockets of wax. Before the wax dries, you can also lightly buff with an old toothbrush to ensure the wax is not built up in the nooks and crannies of your pipe’s rustication or sandblast. Then, let the wax dry. Once dry, lightly and quickly buff with a microfiber cloth. You want the contact to be just across the surface in quick strokes. The tiny microfibers will do the work and get the sheen up.

Yep. I don't use a cloth or any other implement besides my hands. This results in a much brighter polish. Since I use really tiny amounts I just spread it on the fingertips and palms of my hands and hand rub until I get the level of gloss that I want. With blasted or rusticated finishes I spread a TINY amount on the palms of my hands, let it set up a bit, and then rub the surface. The polish doesn't build up in the crevices and delivers a brilliant shine to the high points.

 

[Searock Fan]

Heya

What's the best wax for applying by hand that's easy to procure in the UK?

How does one go about measuring the inside of the draft hole?

With various size drill bits....